Ceremony day at Konkokyo Hongo Shrine

This article will be a little different than my usual informational style, it is a more of an experience day to share! I hope you will also enjoy to read, and I’d love to hear your thoughts and opinions about this style too.

It helps me a lot to keep me writing. For informational posts, I often need to fact check, cross-check, have other priests read over the content, and read over them many times myself – so I can write unbiased and factual information. In combination with a hectic schedule, it takes a long time to post a new article. I really think quality is more important than quality – especially in informational posts. However, to keep things fresh, I do have lots of experiences living Shinto day to day. So I thought about writing them in the meantime as I work on the informational posts.

My thinking is, Shinto is a way of living as much it is a faith with myth, rituals, and beliefs. In addition to sharing what I know about the myths, rituals, beliefs, and customs, I also think it is good to share the day to day mundane life while practicing Shinto. That is, how faith is expressed in everyday life. That we don’t only experience the blessings of kami at shrines, but day to day (that is actually the origin of my blog name, living with kami!) So I hope you will enjoy to read these style articles too!

So, yesterday, I went with Masafumi-sensei, my partner who is also a priest, to Konkokyo Hongo shrine in Tokyo. He was invited to give a sermon there. In Shinto, especially Kyoha Shinto like Konkokyo and even Izumo Taishakyo, after a ceremony, a priest gives a sort of ‘sermon’ – but it is less like sermons in Christian church, and more like saying words of appreciation, giving shrine announcements, and then the main part is to share a faith story or spiritual experiences, or prayers answered they have had with the kami of the shrine, and/or elaborate on how to live with kami in our lives day to day. Masafumi-sensei’s sermon, for example, was telling the story of why he decided to become a priest, and how he helps people in his present life with Kami-sama since becoming ordained.

While Masafumi-sensei was invited to give a sermon, I was invited as well as a guest. I felt very humbled for the invitation, and I am always excited to see how each Konko shrine looks on the outside, the inside, how they decorate their altar, what prayers do they use, what rites do they incorporate, and so on. The beauty of Konkokyo is every shrine can do things in their own ways and have some flexibility how to decorate the altar or the order to use prayers, or what rites to include or omit, and I really love to see the diversity, and even get some good ideas for our shrine!

So, Masafumi-sensei and I first left from Yokosukachuo station at about 9:30am; we head straight into Tokyo but first got off a few stops early to have ramen at this really delicious shop, called ‘Himuro’ which specializes in Hokkaido style miso ramen. The food was absolutely delicious and great price too. If you find yourself in the area – I’d definitely reccomend to eat there!

The super delicious ramen at Himuro !

Afterwards, we got back on the train and rode a few stops to the Hongo shrine. To my surpise, it was right beside Nezu shrine! Not even a 30 second walk, you could walk right from Konkokyo Hongo shrine into Nezu shrine. I was really shocked. Masafumi-sensei planned for us to visit Nezu shrine before we went to Hongo shrine, but I thought it would at least be a 5-10 minute walk judging from the map. But actually, they were next-door neighbors!

We walked around Nezu shrine for a little bit. I had been there once before, but it was raining, and much past 5pm so the gate to the shrine was closed. I never got to see the Haiden (worship hall) or pray to Susanoo no Mikoto, who is enshrined there. So, while it was still raining that day, (as fitting as the weather is for Susanoo no Mikoto!) I got to pray there and greet him, and I was really thankful I got a chance to come back.

Nezu shrine has a very interesting history in Tokyo. The legends say it was founded by Yamato Takeru no Mikoto, a famous prince in Japanese history, who was the son of Emperor Keikou. Emperor Keikou reigned traditionally from 71 to 130 AD, so Yamato Takeru is said to have lived about that era as well (though it is said he died in the 43rd year of the Emeperor’s reign, or 114 AD)

Yamato Takeru no Mikoto is said to have founded Nezu shrine originally in Sendagi, a location a bit north of the current location of Nezu shrine. The current location was built in 1705 on orders of Tokugawa Ienobu, and it makes it one of the oldest shrines in Tokyo. Unfortunately no remnants remain of the shrine from the original location, but the power of Susanoo no Mikoto enshrined is still very strong.

When I visited this time, I was in awe at the palace-like architecture and the deep inner haiden. I did not take a picture of the haiden out of respect and the general air not to take photos of inside, but I felt the power.

The side view of the Haiden of Nezu Shrine

The gate of Nezu shrine, which was once closed

Back of the komainu of Nezu Shrine

Masafumi-sensei and I greeted Susanoo no Mikoto, and then we went on our way to Hongo shrine..which was still, to me, shockingly easy, Tenchi Kane no Kami-sama and Susanoo no Mikoto being next door neighbors! It made me really happy to see though. It reminded me how Konkokyo Shiba shrine and Hibiya shrine are also right across from each other, and give each other offerings for their ceremonies. I like that there is the sense of community.

As we approached Hongo shrine, it was also so beautiful and powerful. It is surrounded by trees and one particularly large, old tree. In addition, the shrine had been recently renovated, and smelled that lovely, addicting smell of fresh hinoki which I love! Masafumi-sensei and I were deeply impressed by the shrine – while we both love the scent of hinoki, what we loved was shrine also kept very traditional style.

Front of Konkokyo Hongo shrine

An eight petal mirror on Kami-sama’s altar, shimenawa marking the sacred area, the large shrine doors that gave off Kami-sama’s usual strong, yet gentle and calming power. The Mitama no Kami (ancestral spirits) altar also had a very strong power too. After all, I thought, this is a sacred place of Tenchi Kane no Kami-sama, and the ancestral spirits who were the community of this shrine from many years ago, the virtue was definitely felt strongly here too, and I was so glad.

Tenchi Kane no Kami-sama’s altar at Hongo shrine

When we got there, we purified our hands and mouth at the temizuya (sacred fountain for cleansing), then head inside. We prayed to Kami-sama and the mitama-sama, then did toritsugi mediation (mediating to Kami-sama via the priest there to give thanks for getting to the shrine safe) and gave our offering for the Grand Ceremony.

Temizuya at Hongo shrine

I also expressed my awe for the altar, and thankfully was given permission to take photos! I couldn’t stop taking them; I wanted to capture the beautiful altar and sense of tradition the shrine kept. I also had in my mind to incorporate the altar style and shimenawa at our shrine too from before, so it felt like Kami-sama was confirming my idea, and showing me a good example I could bring back home to our shrine. Definitely, on our way home, Masafumi-sensei and I could not stop talking about the ideas and ways we wanted to incorporate to renew our shrine as well, especially for our upcoming 120th anniversary.

Snapshots of Hongo shrine – the taiko drum at the back of the worship hall, the Mitama (ancestral spirits) altar, and a framed writing that says “Tenchi Kane no Kami”

We were then invited to a break room where Masafumi-sensei could prepare his sermon, and we were given tea and snacks as well. Even the teacup has a cute little Konkokyo crest that was visible once you drank the tea! I definitely wanted those cups for our shrine too.

The ceremony began, and since Masafumi-sensei and I were not officiating, we head to our spots inside the Haiden (拝殿 lit., worship hall) or otherwise known as a Hiromae (広前lit., vast place) for Konko shrines in particular. We sat in the front, and during the ceremony were also able to offer tamagushi together.

When I went up to offer the tamagushi, I felt a very special moment. I realized it was actually my first time offering tamagushi together with Masafumi-sensei. Usually, I offer it on my own, or he offers it on his own, but this was our first time together. I felt very moved to be able to present our tamagushi together to Kami-sama. It was a moment that I felt very humbled and grateful for. It may sound odd, but somehow being able to offer together to Kami-sama felt very happy for me.

After the ceremony, Masafumi-sensei gave his sermon. I felt really glad he was able to share his story with the worshippers there. He has a very intense life story and while I won’t write about it here for now, as it is his story, many people were moved by listening and he hoped that they would be able to develop their own connections and trust in Kami-sama, and inspiration to help others when they can, listening to his story.

Afterwards, we enjoyed a small snack of melon and tea, and then head out for onaorai (a sacred feast after the ceremony). We went to this very upscale restaurant and enjoyed many variations of foods, such as pasta, sashimi, oysters, and more. I was eating and eating since I didn’t want to waste any food and super grateful for the opportunity, but at the end of it I ate too much after all.

While I was viewing all the foods at the feast, I felt grateful to Kami-sama. Not only for me being able to enjoy eating, but for all the blessings of nature that was within the feast. Giving gratitude for the fishes’ life, the oyster’s life, the meat in the pasta, as well as the work done to cultivate and create the pasta itself, the other food the chefs prepared and served. I felt very grateful for the meal.

The feast ended, and we said our thanks and goodbyes, and head back home. We walked around a bit to check out some shops, but it was raining and already getting late. However, we were grateful for the rain too, as it was a nice cool break from the recent heatwave, and comfortable walking weather. We finally got home about 9pm, and we had been out almost a full 12 hours! However, we could sleep peacefully that night, moved by the visit to Hongo shrine, and the good experience to visit Nezu shrine and walk around Tokyo too.

I prayed at our shrine to Kami-sama, thankful for the events of the day, especially how Masafumi-sensei got to share his story in his sermon, and how we got to offer tamagushi together for the first time. I was thankful I was able to finally greet Susanoo no Mikoto at Nezu shrine in particular, and watch how the ceremony was done at Hongo shrine, as well as be inspired by the traditional style, and feel confirmed about how to renew our shrine too. I felt thankful that the day, while tiring, was really a day I will keep in my memories, and continue to reflect and learn on, and be able to share with others in the future as well.

Shinto in Yokosuka: The deities as neighbors, dwelling in the concrete jungle

In 2015, I first landed in Japan and stayed in Sanda, Hyogo prefecture for a few days before heading to live in Konko, Okayama prefecture. Both places I were in at first were forest heavy and either a small city or completely rural town. Locations where shrines were, as I expected, enjoyed large trees and beautiful natural features around them.

When I later visited Tokyo in September the same year – from the famous Meiji Jingu and Hanazono Jinja, to even small neighborhood shrines, natural beauty remains intact amidst the bustling city, one of the largest in the world. Even in Toronto, my home Konkokyo shrine also enjoys large land, beautiful tree and bushes in front and along the sides, wildflowers, and once had a line of 8 trees across the land (which unfortunately had succumbed to illness from an invasive beetle species, and ordered by the city to be cut down), but, even so, I was used to sacred spots being an oasis of natural beauty, largely and especially in rural areas, but even in an otherwise concrete bustling city like Tokyo and Toronto.

So you may imagine my surprise when, upon moving to Yokosuka and coming to the shrine I now live at here, what around it was not a special area with many trees and nature, but houses! I was shocked.

Of course, we are lucky to have a large garden on the side of our shrine, with a mandarin tree, a persimmon tree, 2 large sakaki trees, a small baby sakaki, Japanese maple, and also growing cucumbers, and more. Our border of the shrine also has aloe plants and other bush and earth – our garden and the natural features are definitely special spots for Kamisama, and in some sense we also have a sort of mini-oasis – but to the extent the shrine is so tight nestled between the neighborhood houses, I was really surprised.

Our humble shrine coming up the neighborhood road – it extends farther back and there is a garden farther down, but the road is quite narrow

The trees of our garden

Our two large sakaki trees – our shrine is 120 years old, and the trees have been here for most of our shrine’s life, providing the branches to be offered as tamagushi. (Read more about tamagushi here)

To be honest, I was a little disappointed and confused. I always expected shrines to be around nature, and while our garden was a sanctuary and blessing, I wasn’t very satisfied at first to be honest!

Over time, living here each day, I started to try and change my thinking. I was thinking about the good of our area. I thought, “Well, it’s nice that Kami-sama is like everyone’s neighbor”. In fact, neighbors often come by to offer sake, candy, sweets, or even the harvest from their own gardens to Kami-sama.

It is a really nice community neighborhood we have, it is so beautifully quiet and peaceful despite just being 5 minutes walk from the core of downtown Yokosuka. Our shrine is up on the hill overlooking the area as well. Not to mention – it is also in the evacuation area in case of natural disaster. Thinking about these positive things, I began to warm up to our shrine’s location more and more, and feel very grateful and humbled for the location, especially during a particularly strong earthquake and threat of tsunami, or when there was threats of flooding from the coast. I learned our shrine even survived through major catastrophes, such as the Great Kanto Earthquake, World War I and World War II.

Becoming more appreciative, I began to slowly warm up. And, the longer I lived in the downtown Yokosuka area, the more I realized our shrine wasn’t the only neighborhood kami-sama! While other areas of Yokosuka city are more quiet and residential, and the shrines have beautiful natural features (perhaps famously for our city is Hashirimizu Jinja, and the East and West Kano Jinja), no where I have seen is quite like downtown Yokosuka.

For example, Suwa shrine, one of the older and larger shrines, has a sando (Sacred path) squished between a McDonald’s and a Chinese food Restaurant, and the other open path is facing the road. Shops tower around the shrine too.

The area around Suwa shrine, courtesy of Google Maps

A medium sized Jizo temple, Enmeiji on Dobuita Street (a famous street here in Yokosuka), is squished right beside a live house music venue and a hearing aid office, with no proper sando, just facing the road path (similar to our shrine).

The Jizo temple on Dobuita Street

A Toyokawa Inari shrine and temple up on the hill, the only way to walk to is to go through Mikasa Dori, a closed roof shopping road, and it is very hard to realize there is the path to the shrine there!

The main way to get to the shrine temple complex, is through these doors in the Mikasa Street shopping center

It is the only main way (there is another way, but difficult to use) to visit. Ryuuhonji, the temple near our shrine, built all the way back in the Kamakura area, is also resting between the houses of our same neighborhood, Fukadadai, and facing the roadways too. It has some large trees, but doesn’t enjoy the exact same nature a large shrine in Tokyo enjoys.

Ryuuhonji’s roadway

There is perhaps an exception in a small Shinmei shrine near our shrine, just 3 minutes beside each other. It has a good natural space around it, probably the most I have seen in downtown Yokosuka area. But just beside and behind the shrine, it is still very much nestled in our neighborhood as well

Shinmei shrine, the shrine just near ours

As I say this, there may be a sense of dejection. To be honest, I felt so at first. I wondered why the downtown Yokosuka area’s sacred spots were like so.

But after living here more and more, I began to love it. In Tokyo, the shrines and temples in the city very much have their own space – that is, you know you’re going to visit a shrine as there is a special area, special marked path. In Yokosuka, you can simply stumble upon the torii just on your shopping trip. Or walking around the neighborhood, and suddenly there’s a huge temple or a shrine just among the houses.

Thinking about it, and what made me want to write this article is – I absolutely love it now.

I think, while I am more of a rural area girl and love nature, isn’t it nice that the deities are right with us even beside shops and homes?

I would be walking down to get lunch, and see Jizo-sama’s temple and can make a sacred visit.
I go to visit for a dentist appointment, look up the road from the clinic, and suddenly there’s a torii and the shrine right there, just one house down. When I walked around my neighborhood the first time, I stumbled upon the massive Ryuuhonji temple from the Kamakura era, just there down the street without warning. Or, I’m shopping in Mikasa dori, and see a sign for a shrine that leads to stairs, and find myself at the sacred spot.

Other cities may have small hokora in the middle of the roads like this, but Yokosuka is one of the few, if not only places that has a special charm where even medium and large shrines can suddenly be in the midst of the homes and shops. And, I love it. The deities are right with us even in our everyday, mundane life. They’re our neighbors, they’re there after you’re going home after work, they’re there right among the shopkeepers and the latest deals of the day. And I absolutely adore that about Yokosuka.

There is a special power and awe to shrines nestled deep within ancient forests, or far up a sacred mountain, or quietly standing proud in the rural villages; I love going to them too, and am always in great respect to them. But at the same time, there is also a special power and awe to the urban shrines too. Shrines near the shops and homes of everyone’s everyday life. There is something really special about that too, that I love.

There are countless kami everywhere within the universe. The light of the sun and the moon shines across all land, and the winds blow across the world with no borders. Everywhere is inherently sacred, even if it becomes mundane to us, everything stands on sacred soil, is nourished by the sacred waters, and recieves the sacred light of the sun, moon, and stars. I learned to realize this, that the kami are really everywhere, not just can be felt in the spots surrounded by nature; but really everywhere. I realized this from the bottom of my heart, thanks to Yokosuka.

View into our shrine at night